01. Chii chinonzi shrinkage
Mucheka mucheka we fibrous, uye mushure mokunge mafivha pachawo atora mvura, achawana imwe chiyero chekuputika, kureva, kuderedzwa kwehurefu uye kuwedzera kwehupamhi.Musiyano weperesenti pakati pehurefu hwejira risati ranyudzwa mumvura uye kureba kwayo kwepakutanga kunowanzo kunzi shrinkage rate.Iko kusimba kwekugona kunyura kwemvura, kunowedzera kuzvimba, kunowedzera kuderera, uye kuderera kwedimensional kugadzikana kwejira.
Kureba kwejira pachayo kwakasiyana nekureba kweshinda (silika) yakashandiswa, uye musiyano pakati pezviviri unowanzomiririrwa nekucheka shrinkage.
Shrinkage rate (%)=[shinda (sirika) urefu hweshinda - kureba kwejira]/kureba kwemucheka
Mushure mekunyudzwa mumvura, nekuda kwekuputika kwemafibhi pachavo, kureba kwejira kunowedzera kupfupika, zvichiita kuti shrinkage.Kuderera kwejira rejira kunosiyana zvichienderana nekuruka kwaro kuderera.Iyo yekuruka shrinkage mwero inosiyana zvichienderana nehurongwa hwesangano uye kuruka kunetsana kwejira pacharo.Kana kuruka kunenge kwakaderera, jira racho rakasimba uye rakakora, uye kuruka kwehrinkage rate yakakwirira, shrinkage rate yemucheka idiki;Kana kuruka kunenge kwakakwirira, jira rinobva rasununguka, risina kureruka, uye shrinkage rate yakaderera, zvichiita kuti shrinkage yakakura yejira.Mukudhaya uye kupedzisa, kuitira kuderedza shrinkage rate yemachira, pre shrinkage finishing inowanzoshandiswa kuwedzera weft density, pre kuwedzera shrinkage yejira, uye nokudaro kuderedza shrinkage rate yejira.
02.Zvikonzero zvekuderera kwejira
Zvikonzero zvekudonha kwejira zvinosanganisira:
Panguva yekuruka, kuruka, nekudhaya, shinda dzemucheka mujira dzinorebesa kana kuremara nekuda kwesimba rekunze.Panguva imwecheteyo, mafiibhi eshinda uye chimiro chejira chinoburitsa kushushikana kwemukati.Mune iyo static yakaoma yekuzorodza mamiriro, static wet yekuzorora mamiriro, kana inoshanduka kunyorova mamiriro ekuzorora, akasiyana madhigirii ekushushikana kwemukati anoburitswa kudzoreredza shinda uye jira kune yavo yekutanga.
Mishonga yakasiyana-siyana uye micheka yavo ine madhigirii akasiyana-siyana ekuderera, kunyanya zvichienderana nemaitiro emagetsi avo - hydrophilic fibers ine dhigirii yakakura ye shrinkage, yakadai sekotoni, yerineni, viscose nedzimwe fiber;Nekudaro, hydrophobic fibers ine zvishoma shrinkage, senge synthetic fibers.
Kana mafibhi ari mumamiriro ekunyorova, anozvimba pasi pechiito chekunyudzwa, zvichiita kuti dhayamita yefibisi iwedzere.Semuenzaniso, pamicheka, izvi zvinomanikidza curvature radius yefiber panzvimbo dzakarukwa dzejira kuwedzera, zvichikonzera kureba kwejira.Semuyenzaniso, shinda dzedonje dzinozvimba pasi pekuita kwemvura, dzichiwedzera nzvimbo yadzo dzakachinjika ne40-50% uye kureba ne1-2%, nepo mafibhi ekugadzira achiwanzoratidza kupera kwekupisa, sekudonha kwemvura inofashaira, kunosvika 5%.
Pasi pemamiriro ekupisa, chimiro uye saizi yemachira emucheka anoshanduka uye anoderera, asi haakwanise kudzokera kumamiriro awo ekutanga mushure mekutonhora, iyo inonzi fiber thermal shrinkage.Kuwanda kwehurefu kusati kwapera uye mushure mekupisa kwekushisa kunonzi shrinkage rate yekupisa, iyo inowanzoratidzwa sehuwandu hwehurefu hwefiber shrinkage mumvura iri kufashaira pa100 ℃;Zvinogoneka zvakare kuyera chikamu chekuderera mumhepo inopisa pamusoro pe100 ℃ uchishandisa nzira yemhepo inopisa, kana kuyera chikamu chekuputsika mumhepo inodarika 100 ℃ uchishandisa nzira yemhepo.Kuita kwefiber kunosiyana pasi pemamiriro akasiyana senge mukati memukati, kupisa tembiricha, uye nguva.Semuenzaniso, kana uchigadzira polyester staple fibers, mvura inofashaira shrinkage rate i1%, mvura inofashaira shrinkage rate yevinylon i5%, uye kupisa kwemhepo shrinkage yechloroprene i50%.Iyo dimensional kugadzikana kwemafayibha mukugadzira machira uye machira ane hukama zvakanyanya, zvichipa humwe hwaro hwekugadzira maitiro anotevera.
03.Shrinkage rate yemachira akasiyana
Kubva pakuona kwekuderera kwechiyero, madiki machira ekugadzira uye machira akasanganiswa, anoteverwa nemvere dzemakwai nemucheka werineni, machira edonje pakati, machira esirika ane shrinkage yakakura, uye yakakura ndeye viscose fiber, yekugadzira donje, uye machira emvere dzekugadzira.
Iyo shrinkage rate yemachira akajairwa ndeye:
Donje 4% -10%;
Chemical fiber 4% -8%;
Cotton polyester 3.5% -55%;
3% yejira jena rechisikigo;
3% -4% yemucheka webhuruu wemvere dzemakwai;
Poplin ndeye 3-4%;
Mucheka wemaruva ndeye 3-3.5%;
Twill jira ndeye 4%;
Mucheka webasa ndeye 10%;
Artificial cotton is 10%
04.Zvinhu zvinokanganisa shrinkage rate
Raw materials: The shrinkage rate of machira inosiyana zvichienderana nembishi inoshandiswa.Kazhinji kutaura, mafiibhi ane hunyoro hwepamusoro anozowedzera, owedzera dhayamita, opfupika pakureba, uye ane hupamhi hwepamusoro mushure mekunyudzwa mumvura.Kana mamwe mafibisi eviscose aine mwero wekutora mvura unosvika 13%, nepo machira e-synthetic faibha asina kunyura mwando, mwero wavo wekuderera idiki.
Density: The shrinkage rate inosiyana zvichienderana nekuwanda kwejira.Kana iyo longitudinal uye latitudinal densities zvakafanana, yavo longitudinal uye latitudinal shrinkage rates zvakafananawo.Jira rine wap density yakakwira rinowana kuderera kukuru kwewarp, ukuwo jira rine wakakwira weft density pane warp density richawana kukura kweweft shrinkage.
Yarn count thickness: The shrinkage rate yemachira inosiyana zvichienderana nekukora kweshinda count.Mbatya dzine shinda dzakakora dzine mwero wepamusoro wekuderera, ukuwo machira ane shinda yakanaka ane mwero wakadzikira.
Maitiro ekugadzira: Maitiro ekugadzira machira akasiyana anokonzera akasiyana shrinkage mazinga.Kazhinji kutaura, panguva yekuruka uye kudhaya uye kupedza machira, fiber inoda kutambanudzwa kakawanda, uye nguva yekugadzira yakareba.Iyo shrinkage rate yemachira ane yakanyanya kushandiswa tension yakakwira, uye zvinopesana.
Fiber composition: Natural plant fibers (yakadai sekotoni nerineni) uye yakagadziridzwazve chirimwa fiber (yakadai seviscose) inonyanya kubatwa nehunyoro uye kuwedzera kana ichienzaniswa neyakagadzirwa fibers (yakadai sepolyester uye acrylic), zvichikonzera kukwirira kwepamusoro.Nekune rimwe divi, makushe anowanzoita kutema nekuda kwechikero chechimiro pafiber pamusoro, izvo zvinokanganisa kugadzikana kwayo kwedimensional.
Chimiro chemucheka: Kazhinji, kugadzikana kwedimensional yemachira akarukwa ari nani pane iyo yemucheka wakarukwa;Iyo dimensional kugadzikana kwemachira akakwirira-density ari nani pane iyo yepasi-density machira.Mumicheka yakarukwa, kuderera kwemwero wemachira epachena weave kazhinji wakaderera pane weflannel machira;Mumicheka yakarukwa, shrinkage rate yemachira akarukwa akaderera pane iyo yembabvu machira.
Kugadzira uye kugadzirisa maitiro: Nekuda kwekusadzivisika kutambanudza kwejira nemuchina panguva yekudhaya, kudhinda, uye kupedza, kunetsana kuripo pajira.Zvisinei, machira anogona nyore nyore kuderedza kushushikana kana akaiswa mumvura, saka tinogona kuona shrinkage mushure mekugeza.Mukuita maitiro, isu tinowanzo shandisa pre shrinkage kugadzirisa dambudziko iri.
Washing care process: Kugezeswa kwekuchengetedza kunosanganisira kugeza, kuomesa, uye ironing, chimwe nechimwe chinozokanganisa kupera kwejira.Semuyenzaniso, masampuri eakagezeswa nemaoko ane kugadzikana kuri nani pane masamples akagezwa nemuchina, uye tembiricha yekuwachisa inokanganisawo kugadzikana kwavo.Kazhinji, kana tembiricha yakakwira, kudzikama kunowedzera.
Nzira yekuomesa yemuenzaniso inewo zvakakosha pakuderera kwejira.Nzira dzinowanzo shandiswa dzekuomesa dzinosanganisira kuomeswa kwedrip, simbi mesh kuparadzira, kurembera kuomesa, uye kuomeswa kwedhiramu.Nzira yekuomesa nedrip ine zvishoma pakukura kwejira, nepo rotary dhiramu yekuomesa nzira ine simba guru pakukura kwejira, mamwe maviri ari pakati.
Mukuwedzera, kusarudza iyo yakakodzera ironing tembiricha zvichienderana nekuumbwa kwejira kunogonawo kugadzirisa shrinkage yejira.Semuenzaniso, machira ekotoni nerineni anogona kuvandudza saizi yavo yekudzikisa chiyero kuburikidza nepamusoro-tembiricha ironing.Asi hakusi kuti tembiricha yepamusoro iri nani.Kune mafibhi ekugadzira, kutonhora kwepamusoro-kupisa hakugone chete kuvandudza kuderera kwavo, asiwo kunogona kukuvadza kushanda kwavo, sekuita kuti jira rakaoma uye brittle.
Nzira dzinowanzo shandiswa dzekuongorora dzemachira shrinkage dzinosanganisira kuoma kupfungaira uye kuwacha.
Kutora wongororo yekugeza mvura semuenzaniso, iyo shrinkage rate yekuyedza maitiro uye nzira ndeaya anotevera:
Sampling: Tora sampuli kubva mubhechi rimwe chete remachira, angangoita 5 metres kubva kumusoro wejira.Sample yejira yakasarudzwa haifanirwe kunge iine hurema hunokanganisa mhedzisiro.Sample inofanira kunge yakakodzera kugezeswa kwemvura, nehupamhi hwe70cm kusvika 80cm square blocks.Mushure mekuisa kwechisikigo kwemaawa matatu, isa 50cm * 50cm sampu pakati pejira, wobva washandisa chinyoreso chemusoro webhokisi kudhirowa mitsetse yakatenderedza kumucheto.
Sample kudhirowa: Isa sample pane yakati sandara, nyorovesa creases uye zvisizvo, usatambanuke, uye usashandise simba pakudhirowa mitsetse kudzivirira kutamiswa.
Mvura yakagezwa sampuli: Kudzivirira kushanduka kwenzvimbo yekumaka mushure mekugeza, zvinodikanwa kusona (machira akarukwa maviri-layer, single-layer yakarukwa jira).Pakusona, divi rewap chete nelatitude yejira rakarukwa ndiro rinofanirwa kusonerwa, uye jira rakarukwa rinofanirwa kusonerwa mativi ese mana zvine elasticity yakakodzera.Machira akakasharara kana akapararira zviri nyore anofanirwa kumonerwa neshinda nhatu kumativi mana.Mushure mekunge mota yemuenzaniso yagadzirwa, isa mumvura inodziya pa30 madhigirii celsius, igeze nemuchina wekuwachisa, woiomesa nemuchina wekuomesera kana mweya woiomesa zvagara, wonyatsoitonhodza kwemaminetsi makumi matatu usati waita zviyero chaizvo.
Calculation: Shrinkage rate = (saizi isati yawacha - saizi mushure mekugeza) / saizi isati yageza x 100%.Kazhinji, shrinkage rate yemachira mune ese ari maviri warp uye weft nzira inoda kuyerwa.
Nguva yekutumira: Kubvumbi-09-2024